Top 10 Tips

• Waterproofing (bathrooms and tiled decks).
• Glazing (shower screens, windows and doors).
• Structural building works (concrete slabs, block retaining walls, wall and roof frames etc).
• Form 4 for Plumbing works and alterations.

Termite protection systems will have compliance documentation as mandatory issue- have this ready to confirm all systems are installed correctly, materials used, date of installation and date for additional servicing. Ensure the Durable Notice has been installed to meter box and kitchen cupboard door by your Pest Contractor. This will avoid any questions about termite protection.

Ensure dripping taps inside and outside are repaired prior to inspection.

Trim overhanging foliage and garden mulch from contact with exterior of house- this is potential termite bridging. Garden mulch should be minimum 75mm below weep holes of brickwork, or below the ant capping for timber clad buildings to provide adequate visual inspection area for termite activity.

Connect additional hoses or pipes to the air conditioning drains and hot water drain if they discharge directly adjacent to the footings- potential footings subsidence and termite attraction. Diverted to a drain is ideal but not always possible, so at least 1.0m from the footings will suffice. An air conditioner can produce 2 litres of condensation per hour.

Ant capping on top of stumps should be bent back into original shape to provide maximum protection from termites. These are a deterrent, not a solution. Home Owners should visually check around the supporting structures including slab edges, stumps and columns for signs of termite activity such as mud tunnels.

Check all silicon sealing of bathrooms is in good condition as this is our #1 defect- for good reason.

Handrails, balustrade systems and steps should be solid and safe, with a maximum gap of 125mm between any members.

Mitigate negotiation by having all defects assessed and listed prior to listing- maximize your return and accelerate the process with confidence.